The Archaeology of Roman Istria

This morning we explore the wonderful remains of Pula, which offer precious testimony to the Roman presence and influence in Istria. Most prominent among these is the stunning amphitheatre, which preserves the underground service rooms, as well as the four outer towers, which contained water for the sparsiones sprinkled on the spectators during performances. We can also see evidence of the structures necessary for the awnings used to shade the spectators. We proceed to the Roman forum where we see the Temple of Augustus, one of the best-preserved Roman temples outside of the Italian peninsula. Dating from the same period is the Arch of the Sergii, which was both a city gate as well as a commemoration of the victory at Actium. Nearby is the Gate of Hercules, recognisable from the high relief sculpture of the hero’s bearded head, together with his club. Nearby is the well-preserved Roman theatre, built into the hillside on which the castle now sits.

We take a short drive to the charming fishing village of Medulin for lunch after which we head to Vizula Archaeological Park. The peninsula which constitutes the archaeological park is beautiful in natural terms but has a wealth of remains. Evidence shows habitation here from the Neolithic period onwards. One of the most striking sites is an Imperial villa, whose large size and rich decorations underlines the prosperity of some of the city’s inhabitants. We round of the day at Nesactium whose Roman remains were built upon the original Histrian town destroyed by the Romans in 177 B.C. It was an important station on the Via Flavia from Tergeste to Dalmatia.

This morning we drive to the Bronze Age hill fort at Monkodonja. It was discovered in 1953 and has given much evidence of the lives led there. It was inhabited and not merely a defensive refuge, with the Acropolis itself having residential buildings and streets. A good deal of pottery has been unearthed and shows a thriving local culture of craftsmen as well as trade across the Mediterranean even as far as the Levant. We continue to lovely town of Poreč, situated on the western side of the Istrian peninsula. Inhabited since prehistoric times, it was a Roman castrum in the second century B.C. making use of the natural harbour and became a municipium during the time of Augustus. We start at Marafor Square, site of the Roman forum. There are remains still visible of some of the Roman temples, as well as paving from the forum itself. We note the Romanesque House, erected in the 13th century, as well as the Kanonika, which still has its original stone portal. Here we see the pediment of the Temple of Neptune, once the largest in Istria. We make our way to beautiful Euphrasian Basilica in a complex that includes baptistery and bell tower. This UNESCO listed building is a particularly good example of Byzantine architecture, built in the 6^th century on top of an older, 4^th century basilica, as well as a Roman domus. Inside, the eye is caught by the staggering mosaics in this complex; the oratory retains a mosaic floor that belonged to the domus.

Today is dedicated to exploring Trieste, the capital of Friuli, which is on the border with Slovenia, and which was shaped by centuries of Habsburg rule when it was one of Europe’s most important ports and the bridge between central and southern Europe. Walking along the city’s elegant avenues, we explore the archaeological remains of the city which was a military camp. We start with the Paleochristian Basilica first discovered in the 19^th century and which is notable for its 4^th and 6^th century mosaics which are reminiscent of those found in the Euphrasian Basilica, including those which record the names of donors who paid for the floor. We continue to the Cattedrale di San Giusto, built between the 9^th and 11^th centuries on top of an early Christian church and a Roman temple and notable for its Venetian apsidal mosaics. Just outside the cathedral, we explore the remains of the Roman forum. The afternoon is spent exploring more Roman remains, including the Arco di Riccardo which monumentalised the entrance to the Cardo, and the well-preserved Roman theatre.

Before we make our journey to Pula Airport, we drive to the pretty town of Vodnjan for a guided walk of its architecture which shows its Venetian heritage. After lunch, we continue to the airport where we catch our return flights to London.