The Aegean Coast of Turkey

We take the ferry to Çanakkale and visit the site of ancient Troy. This is a place to quicken the senses. The site of the ancient city has been reused through centuries with both Hellenistic and Roman towns and sanctuaries on top of the Bronze Age mound. Its first excavator, Heinrich Schliemann dug between 1871 and 1879. He had to cut down through nine later levels to get to the second, which he thought was ‘Homeric’ Troy. Following later excavations, we now know that the sixth level (1750-1300 BC) is most likely Homer’s city. Many of the multiple levels seem to have ended in fiery punctuation marks, the result of war or accident. The ninth level carried on in a small way into the middle ages before Troy vanished.

This morning, we drive from sea level up to the site of Assos, perched on a prominent hilltop overlooking the Aegean and Sappho’s island of Lesbos. A fascinating history saw this city founded by colonists from Lesbos in around 900 BC. Its great days came in the 4th century when its ruler King Hermias, a student of Plato, founded a school of philosophy and encouraged scholars to move to the city. The most famous was Aristotle who married Hermias’ daughter. Assos lost its importance under the rule of Pergamon and later Rome, shrinking and eventually being abandoned. The site has a fine set of city walls, magnificent theatre and the famous Doric Temple of Athena. We have a relaxing afternoon of leisure time.

We travel to the ruins of Alexandria Troas. The site is little-known today and its remains are an evocative example of lost grandeur, it remains partly enveloped in oak trees. The famous arch of the baths stands intact and impressive, while the remains of a stadium are known along with temples streets and houses. The city’s names are confusing! Beginning as Sigeia, Antigonos one eye, a Macedonian general and successor Alexander the Great, renamed it. He brought together the peoples of five other cities and called it Antigonia Troas. The name was changed by another of Alexander’s generals, Lysimachus, an unpopular character, to Alexandria Troas in 301 BC, but the Alexander in question was not ‘the great’, but King Alexander III!

The city remained important under the Romans and its population may have topped 100,000. Naturally St. Paul visited twice in the first century, the city was a bishopric into the 10th century. Thereafter it declines and vanishes. Surviving features include the agora temple with its columns and reliefs, a partly excavated odeon and superb section of Roman streets.

This afternoon we drive to atmospheric Ayvalık. A delightful coastal port, its Orthodox Greek population was exchanged with Greek speaking Muslims from Greece after the First World War and Greek speakers are still found all over the town.

We spend the day at the great Hellenistic city of Pergamon, one of the greatest ancient cities in Turkey, whose extensive remains range across a dramatic rocky outcrop. In the aftermath of the conquest of Alexander the city was taken over by the Attallid dynasty whose masterly diplomacy and alliance with Rome brought it to great heights of power and control over most of western Asia Minor. The last king, Attalus III bequeathed the entire kingdom to Rome in 133 BC.

Our explorations include the Acropolis, where a German archaeological expedition discovered the fragments of the altar of Zeus, built by King Eumenes II to celebrate a military. Painstakingly reassembled it is on display in Berlin. The altar is above the extraordinary theatre, more landscape architecture than public building. After lunch, we visit Pergamon Museum and the Aesclepium. This was the shrine of the healing God Asclepius whose cult became one of the most popular in the ancient world. Pilgrims, usually those with some ailment, would visit the shrine, take part in rituals and then be visited by the god in their sleep to be healed. The priests of the temple were also doctors. The most famous of the these was Galen, in the second century AD. We continue to Izmir.

We enjoy a brief brush with the Hittites. This enigmatic but powerful people dominated Asia Minor in the Bronze Age, their power stretched into Syria. The Karabel rock relief, depicts a Hittite king together with an inscription. We then drive inland to Sardis, a city that has always acted as a centre of Power. Initially the centre of the Kingdom of Lydia until about 500 BC it became a Persian administrative centre, the Roman capital of Asia, and survived into the Ottoman empire. We see its massive gymnasium and bathhouse, and the finely preserved Temple of Artemis. We continue to Pamukkale, the limestone ‘cotton castle' of calcite pools with warm thermal springs. Located in the River Menderes Valley, the Roman ruins here remain remarkably well-preserved.

We explore ancient Hierapolis, which benefited hugely from the nearby thermal springs, with its extensive tombs and the oracular Temple of Apollo. Adjacent to the temple lies the Plutonium, a shrine of the lord of the underworld. It conceals a vent which does still release noxious fumes. This would have been used to induce trance like states and is the source of the oracular powers of the temple. The limescale formations with cascading pools and hot springs make this site very picturesque. Enjoy a free afternoon.

We travel east up the long valley of the Menderes River, through magnificent scenery. The river appears named in Homer’s Iliad and was noted in antiquity for the winding course it struck through the hills. We get our own word Meander, for a winding river, from this ancient original. The magnificent site of Aphrodisias was capital of the Roman province of Caria. The mountains surrounding this idyllic site produce very fine white Carian marble and the city became famous for its sculptors. Traces of their work can be seen everywhere, and the stadium of the city is famous for a series of important inscriptions.

We spend the morning at Priene, which is set on a peaceful wooded hillside beneath a towering limestone peak. The Temple of Athena stands as a substantial ruin. The city was never large and was forced to shift its lotion due to the silting of its harbour by the Menderes River. We follow in the footsteps of the Greeks to Didyma. Originally a Carian city it became an Ionian Greek settlement with a huge temple that housed a shrine and oracle of Apollo, famed for its religious festival, the Didymea. The temple was deliberately destroyed by the Persians but was rebuilt following Alexander’s conquest of their empire. A number of significant personalities participated in the festivals.  Alexander himself (whose army transposed the Didyma cult all the way to central Asia), his successor King Seleucus, and in AD 129 Hadrian.

We end the day at Miletus, well built with its regular street grid on a peninsula. This was the home of Hippodamus of Miletus, among others, who is credited as inventing regular city organisation, the origin of town planning no less!

Our tour culminates at Ephesus, one of western Turkey’s highlights. Probably originally a Hittite city, it was colonised by Attic and Ionian Greeks. This was one of the richest cities in Asia Minor and continued to thrive through the Roman period.

Ephesus was famed for its gigantic temple and sanctuary of Diana/Artemis, built in around 550 BC it was reckoned one of the wonders of the ancient world and a major example of Ionic architecture. Sadly, a single column now marks its sad remains. Images of the famous cult statue were extensively copied in the ancient world, the goddess hung about with sacrificial remains.

The city is full of fine architecture, including the restored but harmonious library of Celsius. We have special access to the Roman terraced houses, with painted walls and mosaics now beautifully restored, with a talk from the curator. After exploring the city, we visit the museum that houses treasures from the site. Ephesus had one of the earliest Christian communities outside Palestine, formed by the Apostle John. His successor, Paul of Tarsus, visited and lived in the city between AD 53-56. We end the day at the fortifications and Basilica of St. John at Selçuk, an extensive church built by emperor Justinian over the tomb of John, in the sixth century. This was in the town that replaced Ephesus in medieval times.

We drive to Izmir, where the tour ends, for our flight home via Istanbul.